Gaick Pass

The Gaick Pass is an old drovers route which connects Strathspey with Perthshire. This stunning route was made even better by the weather and the fact that it was the second longest day of the year.

June 22nd 2018

I last made this trip as part of a three day cycle from Glasgow to Nethy Bridge. The Gaick Pass section was a highlight and I had always wanted to return.

Having been asked to play golf at Pitlochry I somehow had it in my head that it would be good to cycle back rather than return in the car. Luckily that day was the day after the longest day of 2018 so I could make the most of the evening light. Checking the forecast and someone else was taking the golf clubs home helped make the decision.

Setting off from Pitlochry at around 6pm was a strange feeling. Excited to get underway however there is always the nagging doubt that you have left something important behind in the car. Tent, check, sleeping bag, check, phone, check. A last minute purchase of a bike pump and a handful of energy bars meant I was ready to roll.

From Pitlochry to the start of the Gaick route is simple to navigate. Following the Sustrans Route 7 it is mainly side roads and the old A9 road which is no longer used. Despite being close to the main A9 the route passes through some lovely countryside.

Refuelling at the the House of Bruar chippy leads to the usual comments about the fatbike. “What do you need tyres like that for?” “You’ll need some extra chips to drive that thing” from the Glaswegian fish fryers. Once I had explained my plan they were more interested in the bike. A handful of extra chips to help me on my way.

The route continues north on the old A9 to Dalnacardoch Lodge where it crosses the main A9 trunk road. The contrast between the speed and noise of the traffic compare to the next stage of the journey heightens the sense that you are getting more remote as the cycle progresses.

It wasn’t long before I met the first of the wildlife. Two stags had been using an old ruined building to rest. They were aware of my presence on the fattie but they weren’t spooked. I guess this shows their familiarity to people, despite it being very remote.

As I progressed further into the pass the sense of remoteness became greater. Gone was the traffic noise of the A9, replaced by the silence and the call of a Golden Eagle flying above me. Stopping to try and grab a picture seemed worthwhile. It’s these moments I recall from cycles more than the head down nature of just trying to make progress. I had my tent, sleeping bag, food and water on the bike, there was no need to rush.

The route passes three lochs and swaps between banks. The next major point was a simple ford across the river to a stretch which is usually boggy and the single path has been washed away over the years. Heading towards Sronphadruig Lodge is the easiest navigation.

The lodge would make an ideal bothy setting however the high fences and the signage hint at the fact that that wouldn’t be looked on favourably. At this point the moon is starting to become more visible in the evening sky however the sun has yet to set.

After the lodge there is a short steep climb which involved lugging the fatbike and luggage up and over a short bog section. Not that I would complain as the views were grabbing my attention. The main focal point was the sun casting a shadow of An Dún on to Creag an Loch on the other side of Loch an Dúin. I had arrived at the perfect time. There was no need to rush.

Further on I stopped to take on some food and enjoy the silence. The sun had set but there was still enough light to avoid draining the head torch. Suddenly I hear a splash from my right. It broke the silence and to my surprise it was an otter fishing in the loch. No time for a picture but an amazing sight.

A large herd of red deer were feeding further on and I stopped to see them run up the hillside looking for food. There was no need to rush.

My plan had been to wild camp whenever I started to get exhausted, however this was such an epic moment that I decided to continue on for now. Glen Tromie lies at the north of the Gaick Pass and it feels like an extension to the main pass.  The light was fading now but I decided I would push on and see where my legs would take me. The farm dogs further down the path helped me make some decent progress.

The route returned to tarmac at Drumguish and I headed for Loch Insh. There were no cars with the only sign of life being the bats dive bombing my head torch.

In the end I decided to camp at Kincraig at 11:30 finding a spot near the village, some 73 kms from Pitlochry.

Whilst not a technical route I was buzzing from the remoteness and the wildlife which I had stumbled on. Pitlochry to Kincraig in five and a half hours. There was no need to rush.

Words and photos – Eric